Lago di Mergozzo
In fact, there was a time, long ago for us, but not so long ago geologically speaking, when Mergozzo and Maggiore were connected. Mergozzo was the farthest point of the northern arm of Lago Maggiore. Over the ages, repeated flooding of the Toce River deposited sediment which eventually formed a narrow strip of land that cut Mergozzo off from the rest of the lake. Soon Mergozzo was cut off from the Toce as well. This strip of land, geologically an alluvial plain, is where the village of Fondotoce is located today, in between the two lakes, at the southern end of the oval. On the other side of the oval is the town of Mergozzo.
Looking down at the town of Mergozzo, Lago di Mergozzo, and in the distance, Lago Maggiore.This lake is so small that you can see all of it at once, without even turning your head. Its shape always reminds me of a cameo, and the little town of Mergozzo is a lovely little clasp at its top. Mergozzo has only about 2500 residents, and doesn't grow too much bigger during the summer.
View of Lago di Mergozzo from the promenade, looking south.What I like best about Mergozzo is the silence and the stillness. Motorboats are banned from the lake; in fact, I've never seen a boat on it at all, although there are some small rowboats, barca a remi, along the dock. Sometimes I think they're just for show. And the water, it's as smooth as glass. There's a mountain, Monte Orfano, who protects Mergozzo from the strong winds on Lago Maggiore. So while Maggiore has that background sound of waves and wind, of water crashing against the piers and walls, Mergozzo has a calmness that makes one want to whisper.
Via Pallanza is the name of the street that forms the promenade along the lake. There are a nice selection of restaurants, bars, and a few small hotels. At the far end of the curve is a birreria that I like. With its dozens of different beers from around the world, the birreria is a little unusual in wine-loving Italy. But the beer selections are chosen with as much care as the wines, and it's terrace is casual and comfortable. And si, they do have wine as well.
From the birreria at the western end of the promenade, at Piazza Cavour, the lights of Mergozzo twinkle.I love sitting on the tiny lakefront anywhere along this curve; my favorite time is sunset. Go for an aperitivo, and watch the sun go down before dinner. It sets the mood for a truly tranquil evening, because the place does have this sort of Disney World, too-cute-to-be-true feel about it.
At Piazza Cavour.
At Piazza Cavour.Take a look at the map below and you see that one drives right past Lago di Mergozzo, over the alluvial plain, on the way to and from Verbania from Stresa. But you can't see it. And you won't see it unless you take the little detour off the main road, for just a couple of miles, and discover this little jewel hidden behind the mountain.
From Stresa you can also reach Mergozzo by train, the train for Domodossola stops in Mergozzo, and by bus, by switching buses in Verbania. The map and schedule are here.
From Stresa you can also reach Mergozzo by train, the train for Domodossola stops in Mergozzo, and by bus, by switching buses in Verbania. The map and schedule are here.
Arial photo courtesy of Commune di Mergozzo.
Category Article day trips, places to go
